The tradition of adorning kohl-rimmed eyes has been a longstanding allure in the realm of beauty, transcending cultural boundaries. The Word. delves into the intriguing origins of the renowned Indian kajal and its journey across diverse civilizations.
For individuals with Indian heritage, irrespective of their birthplace or upbringing, the initiation into beauty likely commenced with a minute dot of kajal, often experienced in infancy. A sacred ritual passed down through generations, mothers and grandmothers uphold this practice to safeguard against the evil eye, or nazar. Beyond its protective role, kajal has emerged as an integral component of the beauty regimen for Indian women over the centuries.
Contrary to popular belief, India is not the birthplace of Kajal. This exploration unravels the origin of kajal and how it seamlessly integrates into the fabric of Indian beauty traditions.
So, where did Kajal originate?
Historical records trace the earliest evidence of kajal back to 3100–3500 BC in Egypt during the Protodynastic Period. Referred to as Galena eye paint, it constituted a dense black ointment crafted from ground lead sulfide, minerals, water, and oil. Worn by both men and women, this paint served to enhance eye appearance, offer protection against the sun’s harsh rays, and, of course, avert the evil eye. Subsequently, Galena was named kohl, derived from the Arabic language.
Kohl’s cultural significance extends beyond Egypt, with diverse tribes in Africa, such as Somali, Djiboutian, Ethiopian, and Eritrean communities, utilizing it to create distinctive lines and patterns on various body parts, including eyes, nose, and forehead. Other Asian countries, including Afghanistan, Iran, and Pakistan, also embrace kohl as an essential element of their beauty routine.
In India, kajal assumes various regional names, such as Surma in Urdu and Punjabi, Kaadige in Kannada, Karnataka in Telugu, Kanzashi in Malayalam, and Kan Mai in Tamil.
The Indian Interpretation of Kohl
The preparation of kajal differs across cultures, reflecting the regional diversity in its application. In ancient India, women crafted kajal by igniting a small cotton piece soaked in ghee. The resulting soot, collected after covering the flame with a metal tin, was mixed with camphor or sandalwood for the final product. Applied with fingertips, this blend had a cooling effect due to its ingredients, offering a creamier consistency than modern-day kohl, ideal for creating a smoked-out effect.
Similarly, the creation of surma involves dipping a thin muslin cloth in sandalwood juice, drying it through multiple repetitions, and fashioning a wick from the cloth. Lit in a mud lamp filled with castor oil, covered with a brass vessel, the lamp burns overnight. The following day, a few drops of ghee are added to the soot, which is then stored in a small container.
What elevates Kajal’s popularity globally?
Beyond its cultural significance, kajal carries a profound nostalgic element, cementing its place in every woman’s beauty arsenal. Decades ago, kajal stood as the epitome of eye makeup for grandmothers and mothers, enabling them to line their lids or create a captivating smoky effect that accentuated their eyes.
As we unravel the beauty rituals of ancient civilizations worldwide, we recognize the universal appeal of key practices that adapt and transform in each cultural convergence. Kajal encapsulates such a narrative, contributing to its widespread global allure. Leading beauty brands globally have introduced dedicated kohl categories, acknowledging its substantial market presence.
The surge in user-friendly products, including kohl pencils and gel-kohl liners, attests to the enduring popularity of kajal, transcending borders and bringing drama to lids worldwide.
